We recently visited the Albaicin neighborhood with its popular San Nicolas vantage point, nestled above the historic center of Granada. The neighborhood was full of charm and historical significance as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It also has some of the best views of the Alhambra. We enjoyed walking a bit aimlessly to take in the whitewashed houses and glimpses of hidden courtyards. As sunset neared, we made our way to the Mirador San Nicolas viewpoint to watch the sun illuminate the Alhambra, just like it has done for many centuries, bidding farewell to another day.
The Enchanting Albaicin neighborhood
The Albaicin neighborhood and popular Granada lookout point, Mirador San Nicolas, were slated for our first evening in Granada. We were eager to get our first view of the Alhambra and loved the idea of seeing it at sunset. There were little alleyways heading up from Plaza Nueva where our apartment was located. So, we randomly picked one and headed up to the Albaicin neighborhood.
Photo Above: An alleyway heading up toward the Albaicin neighborhood.
Photo Above: A charming staircase in the Albaicin neighborhood.
Albaicin is Granada's oldest Moorish district
The Albaicín neighborhood in Granada transports visitors back into the time of the Alhambra. It’s the old Moorish quarter of the city, perched on a hill opposite the Alhambra. This place has been around since the Nasrid dynasty. When the Moors ruled, this area was home to mosques and bazaars. Since then, churches have cropped up and the vibe has changed a bit. Despite this, the Albaicin has managed to keep its old-world charm and compliments a visit to the Alhambra.
The trek up to Mirador San Nicolas
The walk up is a bit steep. You are walking up the hill, but it’s not too bad. I checked Google Maps to make sure we were headed in the right direction at some point. Other tourists seemed to be a bit unsure of where they were going, so I wanted to make sure we were huffing and puffing in the right direction. The road we chose continued onward as far as the eye could see until we got closer to the top and it spiraled upward and plateaued.
Rewarding views of Alhambra the whole way up
There were plenty of charming details hiding around corners, behind gates, and on the other side of half walls. We were also rewarded with views of Alhambra the whole way up. The was also our first real glance at the Alhambra on our visit. I was so excited that I kept taking pictures, each one a better view than the last. I didn’t know that these views were nothing in comparison to what was coming at the San Nicolas viewpoint.
Exploring the cobblestone streets of Albaicin
As the area plateaued a bit, what was mostly a residential neighborhood showed signs of shops, restaurants, and bars. The neighborhood was pretty quiet when we visited in December compared with the videos I had seen of the area in summer. We saw a few locals in the squares. And the rest of the people wandering around appeared to be other tourists enjoying the neighborhood charm. The sunset called tourists toward Mirador San Nicolas to watch the light dance across the Alhambra.
Photo Above: Look closely for the blue and white Coca Cola sign!
Photo Above: Potted flowers adorned many buildings adding a pop of color.
The Mirador (or Balcony of) San Nicolas viewpoint
The San Nicolas lookout point is located on a square in front of the small church of the same name (Estrellas de San Nicolas). The viewpoint overhangs the hilltop. If you are having trouble finding the lookout point, just look for the church. This was the liveliest spot in the Albaicin. The vibe here was made even better by local musicians playing guitar and singing.
Photo Above: The best seats are those on the wall overlooking the Albaicin neighborhood looking across to the Alhambra.
The view of Alhambra at sunset
Check out the views we had of the Alhambra from Mirador San Nicolas!
Grab a glass of wine and watch the sunset
Since the wall was already pretty full of people and we planned to stay and enjoy the view for a while, we walked down a short staircase at the right end of the plaza to El Balcon de San Nicolas. The first terrace seating is for drinks and snacks only. A full menu is available a few steps lower on an overhanging balcony with the same view. We sat here and watched the sunset while tasting local wine and olives.
Buy provisions at a local shop for a picnic with a view
After the sun had mostly set, we began our descent back toward Granada’s center. I noticed there was a cute shop selling food and drinks next to the bar/restaurant we just left. We followed this road down to Plaza Nueva. It allows cars and the short red ALSA tourist buses to drop visitors off right here at the viewpoint.
San Nicolas vs. San Miguel viewpoints
Visitors actually have two great options for viewing Alhambra, particularly at sunset. The Mirador San Nicolas where we went is popular with both locals and tourists. You have a great view of the Alhambra against the Sierra Nevada mountains. The atmosphere is lively with lots of people and live music. It’s also very accessible and located right in the heart of the Albaicin neighborhood.
However, Mirador San Miguel is higher up and located off an old trail. Because it is higher up, you get panoramic views that include the city of Granada, the Alhambra, and the full surrounding landscape. Being farther up though, means it is quite a trek and is more of an adventure than an attraction. For those looking for a more tranquil and off the beaten path experience, this place might be perfect.
FAQs
1. What is the best time of year to visit Albaicin and Mirador San Nicolas?
The best time of year to visit, is whenever you are in Granada. We visited in December, the low season, and you can see we still had amazing views. While there might not be a best time of year, necessarily, many people make a point to visit at sunset!
2. Are there any entry fees for Mirador San Nicolas?
There is no fee to experience the lookout point. This is a free attraction if you walk. And the small red tourist bus can bring you here for 1.40 EUR (or less).
3. How can I navigate the steep streets of Albaicin?
The streets really are steep and in some places uneven. We used Google Maps to navigate, although there were places where the App seemed to lose us. Just note that the lookout site is up, so keep going up. There are some signs at the top that can help point you toward the lookout point. The San Nicolas lookout point is in the Albaicin neighborhood surrounded by buildings. There did appear to be another lookout site (Mirador San Miguel) farther up and away following a trail further into the countryside. For a moment, I wondered if that was where we were headed. But don’t head that way if you intend to watch from Mirador San Nicolas! For days when it is too hot or too cold, or you simply aren’t excited about an uphill trek, don’t hesitate to take the small red tourist buses here. They are efficient and quick, and cover all the sites you are likely to visit when you are in Granada.
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