Just a short city bus ride from Seville, the ancient Roman city of Italica quietly rests beneath the modern town of Santiponce. Once home to a Turdetanian settlement, Italica was founded in 206 BC by the Roman general Publius Cornelius Scipio, as a home for veterans of the Battle of Ilipa. It was named in honor of their Italian roots.
This quietly powerful place gave rise to two Roman emperors—Trajan and Hadrian (Adriano)—and still bears their legacy. Today, you can walk freely among Italica’s remains: a massive amphitheater once filled with 25,000 spectators, and the grid-like streets of Hadrian’s expansion, where grand houses and intricate mosaics once lined the roads.
It’s easy to imagine the hum of Roman life here, with sandals scraping stone and market voices echoing off the walls. Italica makes a perfect half-day adventure from Seville—or a full-day outing if you linger longer in Santiponce.
How to Get to Italica from Seville
If you’re driving, Italica is an easy trip—just head toward Mérida. But when we visited, we didn’t have a car, and getting to Italica by city bus from Seville was no trouble at all.
We walked from our apartment to Estación Plaza de Armas, one of the main bus terminals in Seville. (A quick tip: the old bus station across the street is now a shopping center—complete with clean bathrooms, in case you’re curious. The actual bus terminal is just next door and… let’s say the facilities are less impressive.)
To reach Italica, take Bus 170A or 170B (both serve the route; 170A is express). The final stop is in Santiponce, and it drops you almost directly in front of the Italica Archaeological Site. You can buy your ticket right on board—no need to book ahead.
If you’d prefer a guided experience, there are also tours from Seville to Italica, including transportation, typically priced between 29 and 39 EUR per person. [More information here.]
Photo above: The modern bus station in Seville (Estacion Plaza des Armas).
Photo above: The historic bus station in Seville, also known as Plaza des Armas, now a shopping center. The bathrooms here were much better than those at the “modern bus station.”
Photo above: Family members boarding Bus 170 to Italica, paying the bus driver.
What to Expect When You Arrive at Italica
When you step off the bus in Santiponce, Italica’s entrance is just across the street. You’ll likely spot a few local vendors set up along the sidewalk, selling souvenirs and small trinkets. Just next to them is a charming little restaurant with outdoor tables—perfect for a glass of wine or a bite to eat while waiting for the return bus to Seville. (We did exactly that, and it was a lovely way to unwind after exploring the ruins.)
The entrance fee to Italica is minimal—free for EU citizens, and just €1.50 for everyone else. Tickets can be purchased right at the entrance gate; no need to reserve in advance.
Before you go, be sure to check the Italica opening hours. The site is closed on Mondays, but typically open from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., and later during certain times of the year. You can find updated hours [here]. (Insert link to official source.)
We visited in December and the weather was perfect—mild sunshine, crisp air, and hardly any crowds. It felt like we had the ancient city almost to ourselves.
Photo above: Map of Italica on site.
Photo above: The entrance gate to Italica.
Photo above: The visitor center has public bathrooms near the entrance.
Inside Italica’s Roman Amphitheater
One of the first things you’ll encounter when entering the Italica archaeological site is its breathtaking Roman amphitheater. And unlike other ancient arenas we’ve visited, here you’re free to wander without a guide or timed entry. That alone felt like a quiet gift.
Despite its age, the structure is remarkably well preserved. You can easily imagine its full form rising to a second level, without needing much guesswork. It’s the fourth largest Roman amphitheater ever built, with space for around 25,000 spectators—almost double the population of Italica at its peak. Talk about planning for a crowd.
We took our time exploring the stone corridors, pausing in shady corners and peeking into every nook and cranny. There was no rush—no tour group behind us, no bus departure looming. Just space and silence and stones that once held stories.
If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, the amphitheater might look familiar—it appeared as the Dragonpit in the show’s final season.
Photo above: View of the ruins around the top of the amphitheater.
Photo above: We explored the tunnels running along the inside wall of the amphitheater.
Photo above: We were able to get up close to the features of the amphitheater.
Photo above: Along the top wall of the amphitheater, there are some viewing platforms where you get a view of the whole amphitheater and can see what it must have looked like to be in the crowds.
Walking the Streets of Hadrian’s Italica
After the amphitheater, the Hadrianic city of Italica unfolds quietly before you—a thoughtful grid of roads, columns, courtyards, and forgotten grandeur. This sector dates back to the 2nd century, when Emperor Hadrian (a local, of course) oversaw an ambitious expansion that nearly quadrupled Italica’s size.
And then… time stepped away.
By the 3rd century, much of this new urban area had been abandoned, leaving behind a remarkably intact layout—a Roman colony frozen mid-thought. While parts of the older city saw life again under Muslim rule in medieval times, Hadrian’s newer district remained untouched. What you see today is an unspoiled example of Roman urban planning, with straight paved roads, porticoed sidewalks for shade, and even remnants of lead plumbing beneath your feet.
The city blocks vary in size and purpose. In the heart of the complex lies the Traianeum, a grand temple dedicated to Emperor Trajan, built on a vast square. Its architectural style echoes other Hadrianic commissions—like Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli or the Baths of Neptune in Ostia—with similar materials and geometric design.
Smaller plots housed private homes, many of which likely doubled as shops or workshops facing the street. And in these homes, you’ll find one of Italica’s greatest treasures: its mosaics. Dozens of intricate floor mosaics have been unearthed here, especially in wealthier residences and public buildings like the baths. Even now, many areas remain unexcavated—offering the quiet thrill of knowing there’s more history beneath your feet, waiting.
For those craving deeper history, Italica is currently listed on UNESCO’s tentative list for World Heritage status. You can read more about its nomination here.
Photo above: Shows a section of the layout of the houses.
Photo above: Sebastian and Sophia pose in front of an intricate mosaic at the site.
Photo above: Another mosaic that caught my eye. There were all really nice and I appreciated the designs.
Photo above: This house had a bakery storefront.
Photo above: An up close look at one of the bird mosaics. We purchased a hot plate with this design from a vendor in front of the archeological site.
Photo above: The placard explaining the House of the Birds, one of the noteworthy mosaics of the homes at the site.
Photo above: Another photo of the House of Birds mosaic.
Photo above: The description of the public latrine.
Photo above: What is left of the excavated latrine.
Photo above: A placard with information about the images on the mosaic of planetarium.
Photo above: The actual mosaic is shown (Mosaic of Planetarium).
Photo: We found water on site. While our visit was in December and the weather was pleasant, I thought it might be helpful to share that there was water as Italica is likely sweltering in the summer heat and this would be a great place to cool off.
Walking trails at Italica
There is a walking trail that takes you around the perimeter of the archeological site. In favorable weather, it is a nice walk and provides views of the amphitheater and Hadrian sector on the hill behind it.
Video from my visit to Italica
Nearby attractions to combine with your visit
There are some other interesting sites in Santiponce that can be combined with your visit to the Italica archeological site. Unfortunately, I did not know about these additional sites before my visit and failed to include them in my plan. So that you can consider them, I am including them here:
- Roman Theater of Italica: This ancient theater is located independently of the Italica archeological site and is open for scheduled festivals and celebrations. There is a viewpoint in Siete Revueltas street, if you want to see it during your visit and it is not open.
- Monastery San Isidoro del Campo: The monastery was founded in 1301near the ruins of Italica and Saint Isidoro of Seville is said to be buried here. Entrance is free and it houses a noteworthy altarpiece.
- Roman Life Interpretation Center: Experience life in the 2nd century Roman city. Visitors are guided through the Cotidiana Vitae and provided interpretation for recreated public and private spaces spanning two floors. Expect to visit a market, the tavern, a school, and the thermal baths. In most cases, admission is 3 EUR. Tours are always guided and part of the exhibition is virtual. had I known about this when I visited, I would have combined this with the Italica archeological site. It would have enriched our visit.
