When I first saw the name Český Krumlov, I had fun just trying to say it. My kids came up with variations—Cookie-Crumb Bucket was maybe my favorite.
This town kept popping up with phrases like “magical” and “fairytale” day trips from Prague. It really wasn’t that close to Prague for a day trip, so its hype was a bit intriguing and led to more research. I decided to take a chance and include it in our itinerary, on our way from Prague to Vienna. Not as a day trip—I felt it was a bit too far for that—but it broke up the trip to Vienna nicely.
We hopped a Flixbus to Vienna on the third evening, making the most of our days.
I was exceedingly curious and hoped it might be a highlight. We booked two nights, hoping such a popular spot would offer enough to fill the time. Plus, there was a castle—and if you know me, I can’t resist adding one more to my very long list.
What I didn’t expect was to fall for it.
Like, really fall for it.
I may never be the same kind of “fall for it.” There was something there that put a hook in me, possibly forever tethering me.
It’s a touristy spot for sure, so this level of draw is mysterious. But this place connected with me, cutting right through the crowds and drunken tourist silliness. It captured my senses. I wanted to breathe it all in, and never let it go.
It’s strange, but I feel like I need to write the town a love letter.
Getting to Český Krumlov
I wish we had traveled by royal carriage, but instead we rolled into town on a RegioJet bus. Of course, in reality, the bus was probably much more comfortable. It’s a few hours from Prague, but worth it! There are two bus stops in Český Krumlov—both just a short walk to the center.
Photo above: We arrived via RegioJet bus at this bus stop, which is below the town and outside the gate from the castle.
Photo above: We left via FlixBus from this bus stop, which is above the town.
The Magic Waits Behind the Wall
Photo above: We are entering Český Krumlov for the very first time—curious, with no real idea what lay ahead—through the gate.
Photo above: I snapped this as we climbed up and out of Český Krumlov, leaving it all behind. It’s a fantastic view of the town on the way to the upper bus stop.
Český Krumlov: Love at First Sight
I remember the moment, when we popped through the castle wall, I knew I had arrived, and it was going to be someplace special. I think when we first got off the bus, I didn’t see anything at first that looked special. I was searching and expecting, and eager to see. When I came through the wall, and took it in, I had to grab for my phone and start taking photos. It was just so much to take in. I loved it from the moment I saw it. I think others did too, because there was a crowd of folks who hadn’t made it far, also just trying to take these first moments in.
Photo above: You really only see the village once you go through the castle wall. It’s rather inconspicuous from the road.
Photo above: But once you are inside the wall, its like you have been transported into a fairytale. The colors alone, are amazing.
Český Krumlov Views from the Castle
From the town, you are always looking up and admiring the enormous castle—the largest in the Czech Republic after Prague Castle. Its tower is seemingly always a visible reminder of the magical place you are in. But if you go up to the castle, you see the town from another viewpoint, and how the river runs around it. There’s so much to take in, and it’s easy to spend some time up there just admiring the town below.
Photo above: The river, which runs around the town like a horseshoe, is as much of a highlight as the castle. While it’s tempting to spend all your time enjoying the river, you don’t want to miss seeing inside the castle. The structure itself looks huge but feels like an empty slate from the outside. You’d have no idea, just by looking at it, that the tower hints at what you’ll discover within. The inside is gorgeous. I’ve visited so many castles (I was already obsessed with them as a kid), and this one made an impression. I couldn’t believe I had never heard of it. I really just stumbled on it because it happened to be there. But it is a destination for castle lovers.
Photo above: I will do a separate post on the castle, because it needs its own post. But in case someone only sees this post, I had to drop in a few photos. The room above was one of my favorites.
Photo above: I lost concept of space here. Somewhere above the castle, as if we had reached up into the sky, is a vast garden. Did I mention the castle complex is guarded by real bears?!
Photo above: I loved that in Czech Republic, castle admission generally always included a tour. This was the case here and the tour brought everything to life! The castle has many stories to share.
Photo above: As I strolled through the garden, and took in everything from the day, I told my son that if I could choose a castle, I think this would be the one. I couldn’t wrap my mind around how someone could be strolling this serene space, secluded high above the bustling town below.
Experiencing Český Krumlov's River
So, more about the river encircling Český Krumlov. You can’t miss it, nor resist it. It beckons. It was clear that it’s a draw for many regional tourists. Many fellow visitors were wearing custom group T-shirts to commemorate their float or raft adventure here. The river was swollen with rafts, kayaks, paddleboards, even historic raft tours. People of all ages were aboard—some drunk, others serious. At times there were traffic jams, and everyone, regardless of nationality or language, had to work together to get through.
Our particular experience had a rough start, with a moment where I thought we might not make it through in one piece—but that’s a story for another post. Overall, I’m already looking forward to my next float in Český Krumlov. The river is amazing.
Photo above: The rafting experience was fun for the whole family. The biggest raft was for 7, and we filled the whole thing.
Photo above: We floated past several river-side bars where you could simply pull in and enjoy a drink.
Photo above: This was our starting point. We were dropped off with the boat by a van driver. We navigated 7 weirs (or ramps) on our float back to town.
Photo above: The end point is at the Cesky Krumlov brewery. As we walked back along the river, there was vessel after vessel making their own memories, as they journeyed along.
Village Magic in Český Krumlov
I can’t quite put my finger on it—why it’s so magical. Yes, it looks fairytale-like. But so do other European gems. We’ve come across so many, yet this one was different.
One downside to fairytale villages is that they’re often overrun by tourists. This one was no exception. But there weren’t many other Americans here. It was mostly German-speaking visitors. It struck me as the kind of place German-speaking families come for a week, often in groups with friends.
There was a sense of community among the tourists, a shared sense of relaxation and fun. No one seemed in a hurry to check it off and move on to the next destination. People lingered. They came for the experience itself—for the memories.
Men strolled around in speedo swim trunks, couples danced in the cobblestoned side streets, and musicians played for no one in particular at scattered corners of the town.
We embraced it. The kids could explore on their own during the day, meeting up occasionally for a snack or a meal.
I can only say: this place is magical.
We spent about three whole days exploring the town. It’s small, but holds so many wonders. Even if you find your way outside some of the more renovated parts, it still has its full charm.
Photo above: This street was a bit off the beaten path tucked behind the thoroughfare. And yet, it still had flying dragons above it.
Photo above: There were so many small shops and cafes, each with their own character, like this one above.
Photo above: The town square was equally enchanting. A wonderful place to sit for a moment, and take it all in.
Photo above: The town square was flanked by colorful buildings, many with inviting outdoor seating.
Photo above: I am so glad we didn’t decide to try to do Cesky Krumlov as a day trip. There are layers to it, that can only be experienced by immersing yourself in its walls, and witnessing it across the hours.
Photo above: And at night, Cesky Krumlov lights up. It takes on a new kind of magic that allures and dazzles, and brings a magical bedtime story to life. At that moment, its hard to imagine anyplace better.
Dearest Český Krumlov,
I arrived without knowing—
no plan, no dream.
Only a pause between places,
a name on the map I could not pronounce well.
But then a step through,
and the heart quietly
turning toward wonder.
You greeted me with warmth,
walls brushed with fading color,
the scent of bread rising
from some hidden doorway.
Music, faint but insistent,
danced over the sound of rushing water.
You poured gold upon me,
sunlight molten on roofs,
and I was trapped,
a fly in amber,
a lover in the net of your hours.
You tricked me,
you lovely little town,
into falling headfirst
into your fairytale.
Dearest Český Krumlov,
you changed my bearings.
You folded me into your story
and handed me back to myself,
different—
as if love could happen
not just with people
but with place.
